Rated by Eye Magazine as ‘outstanding’, but receiving mixed reviews from Toronto Life who ultimately rated it one of Toronto’s Best New Restaurants in 2007, Quince falls into the group of a must-try – a Mediterranean-inspired place with reasonable prices and a reputation for fresh, innovative flavours. Located only a few blocks south of the busy intersection at Yonge and Eglinton, this new midtown digs was opened in fall of 2006 by the husband and wife team consisting of Jennifer Gittins and Michael van den Winkel, once members of the acclaimed Stork on the Roof.
Do you know where the ill-famed nudie bar Cheaters used to be? Well, Quince is directly across the street from there, surrounded by a nice patio decorated with teak furniture and plenty of cushions in bright, primary colours. Just two doors down, we can find the famous restaurant Coquine and a neon sign saying “Adult Video & Novelties” – I bet you wouldn’t expect this in a neighbourhood famous for its blossoming business district and parks popular for families. But this part of Yonge Street between Eglinton and Davisville has always had, at least for the last twenty-five years, an eclectic mix of shops. Clothing boutiques, bead and paper stores, home decor, but also adult venues – all this can be found around here.
Right at the door at Quince’s, we are warmly greeted by a hostess and offered a place near the bar on one of the low, cushioned banquettes. Pleading excessive height, we’re offered a choice of tables, which is a pleasant surprise for a Saturday night in this busy neighbourhood. I ask: “What’s downstairs?” We get an answer from our hostess: “Oh, that’s our private dining room.” Open for lunch and dinner and boasting its own bar and lounge, the nice room is elegantly decorated (though the tile floor is a tell that you’re in the basement). This place can seat corporate or private groups of diners up to 40 people or cocktail receptions of up to 70 people. You can get a suggested menu along with matching wines, showing that the personnel takes care of all the details.
Our waiter is approaching with a brief list of specials, just a moment after we have picked our table. I want to say a brief list of specials consisting of a long explanation of ingredients and preparation methods, and how the meals go together. He definitely knows his stuff, not referring to his notebook as he pauses to explain what is a garnish vs. what is offered on the side. The waiter could be best described as personable, friendly and efficient. He gives me a while to decide if ordering a whole sea bream is such a great idea, just points out apologetically: “Most people order a side with it, it’s just the fish.” And in the meanwhile, we can have a look around. I notice the cleverly designed lighting that enhances the whole space of the dining room and adds nice warmth to it. The space seems to be noticeably large but still somewhat intimate at the same time. Another pleasant thing is the volume level – even though the place is almost completely full, we can still easily have a conversation or listen to the background music (probably D’Angelo and Stevie Wonder). Modern art in earthy colours decorates the loft-style exposed brick walls and brings balance to the exposed ductwork, which has been painted in chocolate browns to ease off any trace of sterility. Voyeurs will appreciate the semi-open kitchen, offering a glimpse of the wood-fired oven behind the bar. Read the rest of the review in the Quince restaurant write-up.